We have all heard of the 'angle-in vs. angle-out' concept for shooting bank and kick shots. I was thinking about this awhile back, while I was really bored and needed something to do, and it occurred to me that light travels in a straight line. (Sometimes I really surprise myself with great insights...) Of course, most of us already know that, but there are some clever uses for this fact, as I will show here. I had heard of laser cues and other devices but they are pretty expensive and I already have some expensive cues. I wanted to somehow use a light beam to help line up bank and kick shots and do it for as little money as possible, so I came up with this idea to build a 'Laser Aimer'. As the idea developed and I used it, what was most fun was discovering new ways to use my new toy.
Have you ever seen the laser beam devices used in construction that use a laser light line to align and measure a whole host of things? Well, as I combined my straight line light fact with the laser device I came up with something that can be used on a pool table and will help with aiming shots.
Curious? Read on...
How to build the Laser Aimer
The first thing I needed was a laser light source. I started looking at those pointer pens and discovered they would be really hard to adapt to my uses and while looking at different laser pointers I was really fortunate when I found a device called a "Strait-LineR Laser Level 60" (see Figure SL-1 below) Laser Line device, and on sale for $19.99 at Home Depot (unpaid plug). (I really should contact the Strait-LineR folks for royalties, yea right!) See info on the Laser Level 60 at:
http://www.strait-line.com/irwin/consumer/straitline/jhtml/laser_level_60.jhtml
The Strait-Line doesn't 'just' put a laser dot on something, like a pointer would, it does something better! It has a small lens in front of the laser light source that actually makes a red laser line between the Strait-LineR and whatever you are pointing at. It is (normally) used for making a line on a piece of wood or other construction material so you can mark it then cut it. At the end of the line is a 'red dot' so what you end up with is a line of laser light and a 'target dot'. How lucky is that? I found a device that was exactly what I needed! Note: I contacted the company that builds the Strait-LineR and they strongly suggested I include their disclaimer, so here it is: Don't look into the laser light it may damage your eyes. I, also, WOULD NOT recommend getting clever and pointing it at people, there might be a policeman around and they are trained to beware of 'red targeting guns' with lasers. You might get an ugly surprise and get arrested, or worse, if you put the light on someone! It is possible to shine the light off the table, and the light goes quite a distance. Be Careful how you use this device! You might want to tell everyone what you are doing so they know about the 'red light'.
Now with that legal stuff out of the way, do you remember the 'angle-in vs. angle-out' I mentioned before? Well how do you think a laser light can be made to show that 'angle-in vs. angle-out' concept? It's really hard to figure out...think about it...go to the library, research it...and you will come up with this fantastic device called a mirror. (Sorry for the dramatics but I just couldn't resist...this was so simple even I figured it out!)
Anyway, back to the subject...In order for this to work I needed the laser light to go over a pool ball so it would show the path of the ball by following the laser line. I tried several methods until I came up with this simple solution. The Strait-LineR sits flat and is about 3/8" too short to project the light over a pool ball, so I cut some 3/8" thick, wood blocks to fit the Strait-Line'sR footing. I used two pieces of wood because I didn't want to block the battery door on the bottom of the Strait-LineR. I used double-sided tape (the 3M type with the 1/16" foam space between sticky sides), and stuck the blocks to the bottom of the Strait-LineR. (see Figure SL-2 below, note battery door -- it uses 2, 'AA' size batteries) The front of the Strait-LineR is shown in Figure SL-3. Note the 'yellow' window in the center, this yellow piece slides up revealing the Laser Light and also turns on the Strait-LineR's Laser when lifted. (There is also a sharp steel pin you can push down with the black indented piece just below the yellow window, but I didn't use that.)
Figure SL-1
Figure SL-2
Figure SL-3
Now I had a device that made a laser light line over and in front of a pool ball. (see Figure Laser-1 below). The laser is behind the Cueball at the top right of the picture, shining down the table to the mirror at the bottom of the picture, then reflecting back up the table to the 9 ball by the pocket at the top left of the picture. (Note that the laser line starts just past the Cueball's shadow.) For this picture I changed the mirror angle slightly to put a bigger 'red dot' on the 9 ball so it would show up better. How is this done? See the next section on the Mirror.)
Figure Laser-1 (actual laser light)
The Mirror
Next, to do the 'angle in vs. angle out' 'V' angle, I needed a mirror sitting at 90 degrees to the table surface, and I needed a quick way to assure it would stay in place and be adjustable (flat) for storage. I also needed to raise the mirror up from the table surface so it would closely match the Strait-LineR height to provide a straight reflection path for the laser light. In figuring all this out I discovered that there is another neat invention called a hinge that I used (see Figure M-1). I went to the trouble of getting a long hinge and cutting off a piece, but a good quality tight 2" hinge would work just as well. (If the hinge wobbles it won't represent a true vertical vs. horizontal position for the laser light.)
To attach the mirror (I went to a Hobby Lobby store and purchased a 3" X 4" mirror) I again used the two sided 3M tape, and stuck the hinge to the back, bottom edge of the mirror. Then I screwed (screws came with the hinge) the hinge to a block of plain white pine 1/2" thick and 3" X 4" in size (same as mirror) for the mirror footing (of course the wood was sanded and painted with clear urethane to stay clean). If you look close and notice the way I set up the hinge, with the pin to the rear, it stops at the desired 90 degrees when fully forward which allows the back of the mirror to be placed directly against the cushion for true positioning, and, when hinged back, also allows the mirror to be slightly adjusted to show the laser line and red dot better, as I did in Figure Laser-1, above. The hinge also allows the mirror to lay flat (see Figure M-2) for easy storage. I always wrap this mirror with a towel so it has some protection from breakage. Note: Be sure to apply the hinge and mirror straight on the block of wood so your reflection alignment laser lines will be accurate.
A note about the mirror; if you find one, and in your reflection you look like you are in a fun house hall of crazy mirrors, you might want to find a better mirror. Those cheap mirrors just won't give you a straight line. I didn't have any trouble finding a cheap good one, but be careful to get one that isn't distorted. Hold the mirror up and look at various angles and move it side to side slightly to see if reflections are normal or distorted.
Figure M-1
Figure M-2
How it works, how to use it and how it helps your game
Bank Shots
To use the laser light with the mirror for a Bank Shot:
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You simply position the Strait-LineR Laser behind the Object Ball, align it so it points to the far cushion approximately at your Bank shot cushion point to make the shot;
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Then place the mirror in line with the laser light with the back of the mirror flat against the cushion, with the mirror straight up at 90 degrees to the table;
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Then go back and tweak the laser and mirror position until the laser line goes to the mirror and reflects back on your target...and puts the 'dot' on the pocket. So the 'angle-in vs. angle-out' is perfect based on the light path and mirror reflection...the perfect "V" off the far cushion back to the object pocket. (see Figure Bank-1 below).
The point that the laser hits on the back-side of the Object Ball is your contact point for the Cueball. This aiming system works no matter where the Cue or Object balls are on the table or what your target pocket is, assuming you can hit the Cueball and contact the Object Ball where the light hits it).
The mirror reflected light shown in Figure Bank-2 shows the laser light reflected to the target pocket at the best entry point to avoid the cushion tip. I only did one picture example for a Bank Shot since it is so straightforward.
Figure Bank-1
Figure Bank-2
Once you determine where to aim and bank, remove the mirror. The laser will still be pointing to the contact point on the Object Ball and the bank point on the cushion. You might want to remove the mirror and leave the laser in place and shoot, or put a mark on the cushion with chalk to help remember where the contact points are, your choice depending on the shot. I prefer to leave the laser in place on bank shots so I can see (red) the contact point on the Object Ball. You can virtually put this system in place anywhere on the table regardless of the angle or distance...the laser will reflect in a 'V' and point to your pocket, then you hit the Cueball to contact the Object Ball at the light point to make the shot. In case you happen to hit the device with a ball, remember, it was designed to be used in construction and is pretty rugged -- but I wouldn't recommend hitting it too hard, you might damage the light source.
Kick Shots
To do Kick Shots, the process is similar but instead of putting the laser behind the Object ball, you put it behind the Cueball, align the mirror the same way but for kick shots you must target the actual contact point for the kicked ball to make the pocket.
For balls that are NOT aligned with the pocket line, you need to use a 'ghost ball' in line with the target pocket through the Object ball, and align the laser light on the center of the 'ghost ball'. That assures your shot will contact the Object Ball in the correct place to make the shot. (More on this after I describe the shots that are lined up already.)
In circumstances where the laser is in line with -- through the Object Ball to the -- pocket anyway, you don't need a 'ghost ball'. This type of shot is shown in Figures Kick-1,2,3,4 & 5 below. If you follow the laser line and hit the Cueball properly to rebound from the 'Contact Point on the Cushion, it will kick off the cushion and contact the Object Ball at the red dot. When you actually shoot, remember to remove the mirror, mark your kick point, remove the laser then shoot. (see below, Figures Kick-1, Kick-2 for a side shot, Object ball front and rear view's; Kick-3, Kick-4 for a full table - off the side cushion; kick shot; and Kick-5 for a full table kick shot). Remember on cushion shots, if you come up short on the angle you hit too hard, if you come up long, you hit too soft. Medium speed hits work best.
Figure Kick-1 (front)
Figure Kick-2 (rear)
Figure Kick-3 (behind mirror)
Figure Kick-4 (rear of OB)
Figure Kick-5
(Actual laser light, neat huh?)
As I said above, for kick shots with balls that are NOT aligned with the pocket line, you need to use a 'ghost ball' in line with the target pocket through the Object ball, and align the laser light on the center of the 'ghost ball'. This gives you the correct aiming point, thus the correct kick point on the cushion, for the shot. Below, the side shot in Figures Kick-6a,b & c and the corner shot in Figures 7a & b show how the laser aligns these shots.
Figure Kick-6a (mirror)
Figure Kick-6b (ghost ball rear)
Figure Kick-6c (aim point rear, close up)
Figure Kick-7a (ghost ball rear)
Figure Kick-7b (aim point rear, close up)
I have done this so much that now I just line up the shot, and mentally remember where the laser was pointing. I don't always make my shots, but this has helped me visualize the shot after the laser is gone and it replicates the same mental process you might use in a game...observe the shot you want to make, think about follow up position etc., pick the bank or kick point by observing angle in vs. angle out, line up the shot and go for it!
The only other bit of information you need to know is that to get the 'angle-in vs. angle-out' laser aiming concept to work, you must hit the balls at a medium speed with no English. Depending on the distance of the shot, slight variations in speed and/or English will affect the shot, so be gentle. On longer shots, you might need more speed, but avoid side-spin (English) until you get comfortable with the effects on the Cue and Object Balls.
If you use a device like this in practice you will get better and better at judging your bank and kick shots. In games, as you visualize shots, you will see the angles you practiced and know more precisely the contact and aim points that work best for particular shots. The only down side I have seen is that it takes anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute or more to set up shots but I feel the knowledge gained is well worth the time.
Using the Laser Aimer with the Ghost Ball Technique
In case you didn't notice, since the 'Ghost Ball' technique works for kick shots, as described above, the technique also works well if you use the 'Ghost Ball' technique and Laser Aimer together for normal shots. In the following four pictures, you can easily see how in Figure GB-1, the Cueball, acting as a ghost ball, is directly behind the Object Ball on a line to the corner pocket. If you align the Laser Aimers light line on the center of the ghost ball, then move the Ghost Ball away, and put the CB on the aim line as in Figure GB-2, you can see the actual aim point on the Object Ball and how the laser line is centered on the Cueball...in bright red. (Notice how the aim point is on the right edge of the 9 ball.) I have found this technique quite useful as it 'burns' into my memory the actual aim points on various shots. This definitely helps my game, especially on tough shots. You get to see where the 'aim points' actually are on a variety of cut shots...now you don't have to guess or think about it too much.
(Don't forget about Throw if you put English on the Cueball, if you don't compensate slightly, most of the time, on longer shots, you will miss. Compensating for Throw is another subject, but in a short synopsis, to correct for Throw you aim slightly opposite your English...i.e., Right English (on Cueball) means you aim slightly left at Object Ball etc. The amount of aim change depends on how much English, how hard you hit and the distance between the Cueball and the Object Ball, and the overall distance of the Object Ball's travel to the pocket. This is a more advanced skill I'm not covering here, but just wanted to mention it so you don't get discouraged if you aim at the Laser Aimer's point of light and keep missing...maybe it's Throw that is causing it. Remember to learn to use these techniques it is best to shoot medium speed with no English until you learn to compensate for other factors, like English, Throw, Deflection etc., as a more advanced skill.)
Figures GB-3 and GB-4 show a side pocket shot using the Ghost Ball / Laser Aimer Technique. (Notice on this shot, the aim point is about 1/4" to the right of the 9 ball.)
Note: On these pictures I had to 'enhance' the red line of the laser because the picture came out with a real faint line, but on the table it was very visible.
Of course, if the Cueball is moved off the line or in a different position, you must realign the shot with the laser, as the aim point will move depending on the angle of the shot.
Figure GB-1
Figure GB-2
Figure GB-3
Figure GB-4
(In Figure GB-4, the Cueball is moved aside to provide better visibility on aim point)
This laser aiming device, of course is only a practice tool, as I'm sure an opponent would have a real screaming, stomping, cursing fit if you laid this baby on the table and started measuring shots during a real game...funny, our league doesn't have any rules against such a device and I intend to use it someday...just to rattle a few cages and really tick off some of the more anal players...but that is my 'dark side' and we won't go there right now!
Well that's it, I hope some of you can build this 'toy', learn from it and enjoy it as I have. I use it to practice my shots so I have a better idea of just how to make difficult shots during games. It works most anywhere on the table, assuming you have enough room for the Strait-LineR laser device and the mirror if you need it. So far, I can actually say my banking and kicking is getting better...my opponents certainly have noticed my increased skills in that area. When I use it for practice I always get curious players wanting to know what I'm doing...I simply say, Laser Aimer, don't you have one? That just makes them even more curious and it's fun to explain what you can do with it and how easy it is to build.
I also noticed something else while working on this project. If you will note in the left picture, the laser's reflection went straight to the pocket. If you look into the mirror and see the pocket 'behind' the mirror, it is the same as the right diagram. An interesting thing to observe...if you removed the mirror and were to shoot to the 'pockets reflection' you would go into the pocket.
Picture of Laser-2-Pocket
Diagram of Line to Pocket via Mirror
Normally I patent and/or copyright my devices...but this one is so simple I am putting the idea into the public domain (This article and various companies images are Copyrighted though, see below disclaimer). This idea set me back some time and around $25 to make. The Strait-LineR Aiming device normally sells for $29, I happened to find it on sale, so look around for a bargain.
Mick Turner